Credit Information

  
Q: What exactly Is a Credit Score?

A: Your credit score represents your creditworthiness: How likely you will pay your bills and pay them on time.
  
 
  
The Minneapolis-based Fair Isaac Corporation (better known as FICO) was the first (but no longer the only) to boil down your credit history, a detailed report on how you borrow and repay your debts, into a single three-digit number.

The FICO scale ranges from a low 300 to a high 850 (however I have never seen below 350)  The higher your score, the more likely you will qualify for the lowest interest rates. FICO gives its formula to the three credit bureaus—Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion—and they apply the math to your credit reports. Each pulls information from a slightly different network of lenders to compile its own report on you. (FICO earns a small royalty for each score the bureaus sell to lenders.) Because of this, you actually have three FICO scores, one from each of the bureaus, and they can vary.

You are entitled to one free credit report from each of the bureaus once a year to understand your credit score. You can get the FICO scores based on your TransUnion and Equifax credit reports from myfico.com for $15.95 each. Experian no longer sells its FICO scores to individuals.

So this may lead you to ask How Is Your Score Calculated?
Your score reflects how well you’ve managed your debt. Black marks (even know usually they are red at most scoring sites) such as late payments remain on your record for seven years. (For some forms of bankruptcy, it’s ten years.) There are factors that don’t affect your score: employment status, income, debit card habits, savings, bounced checks, overdraft fees, utility bills, and late rent (if the issue hasn’t gone to court and become a matter of public record of course).

Here’s what the bureaus use to calculate your score.
  
  
Payment history 35%
 
The bureaus factor in when you last paid an account late, how often you pay late, and by how many days, the older the late payment the less it hurts you.

Best way to do this? Honestly is to set up automatic payments to guarantee you’re never late.
 
Total Debt 30%
 
In general, higher debt loads work against you.
 
The strategy: Lenders look at your “usage ratio”—how much debt you owe on your credit cards compared with the total amount you could borrow. To keep your ratio low, don’t max out your cards, and don’t cancel cards you don’t use.
 
Say you owe $100 apiece on five credit cards, each of which would let you borrow up to $1,000. Your overall usage ratio—debt ($500) divided by credit limit ($5,000)—is 10 percent. Cancel all but one card and your debt is still $500, but your available credit drops to $1,000. Your usage ratio is now 50 percent, enough to lower your score. A lot.

The people with the best scores tend to use no more than 9 percent of their available credit. Go above 50 percent, and your score is headed for a nosedive, says Steve Bucci of MMI Financial Education Foundation, a credit-counseling firm. This can cause your credit score meaning to get a lot more complicated.

You need to understand there is TWO very different types of scoring models at play here..

1. Overall % of your used Vs available credit.

2. % PER account of used Vs available credit.

Bottom line here, keep ALL accounts under 9% if at all possible, also keep in mind they only report ONCE per month so even if you make a last minute payment right before it reports (also called a reporting or statement date) you will be fine.
 
Age 15%
 
The longer you’ve had an account, the better. A late payment on a two-year-old account will hurt your credit score more than if you’d had the card for two decades.
 
Avoid opening new accounts unless necessary, and keep your oldest credit cards active (assuming you pay any new charges in full). “In this environment, if you don’t use a card, you lose it,” says Frank Remund of Seattle’s Credit IQ, a fee-only financial advisory firm. “To demonstrate you’re still using the card, sign up to have it automatically make one utility payment every month.”
 
New credit 10%
 
Multiple requests for credit mean you’re a greater risk. FICO looks at the number of new accounts that you have opened as well as the number of requests, or inquiries (there are two kinds), for your credit score or report.
 
The strategy: “Hard” inquiries—when you actually apply for new credit—can ding your score. The best way to protect yourself is to squeeze your applications—whether for a mortgage or a car or student loan—into the same 45-day period so they’ll count as a single inquiry.
 
Nowadays, banks and insurance companies routinely check account holders’ credit reports. If your score has dropped, they might increase your interest rate, reduce your credit limit, or cancel your card. (As of February 22, 2010, credit card companies will no longer be able to raise your rate on old balances if you have a fixed-rate card.)
 
“Soft” inquiries don’t count against you. For example: requests you make for your own credit report and those “preapproved” card offers that arrive, unsolicited, in the mail.

Types of Credit AKA Account Mix 10%
 
FICO looks at the number and “quality” of each type of account. For instance, a credit card from a national bank carries more weight than one from a department store.
 
Revolving accounts (credit cards) tend to count more than installment loans (mortgages, car loans, student loans) because they’re better predictors of your debt management. If your mix of debt is considered “off balance,” it can hurt you. For example, it’s possible to have too many credit cards but not enough of other types of loans (four or five cards is probably okay, says Adam Jusko of indexcreditcards.com, depending on how long you’ve had them).
  
  
So you may be asking yourself which of the above categories can a tradeline help me with? Answer: ALL
Think about it.

A Tradeline adds Age, raises your available credit, adds to your account mix, lowers your % of "new accounts" and adds flawless payment history.

So what about "Credit repair" or fixing the negatives already there?
I know Credit repair is a bit of a dirty word (or words as it were) but here is the reality of it.

1. Almost everyone needs it.

2. There is nothing "dirty" about it.

3. It can be done in several different ways and none are right or wrong but they are purely situational, we look at each file very differently and take the proper approach because it is not one size fits all.

4. Is it a myth that anyone can repair their own credit? NO that is 100% true and accurate, In fact we give some of the best letters in the world out 100% free on this very site FOR you to repair your own credit, why pay someone to do what you can do yourself right?

So why do we offer credit repair services if we feel that way right? Well we also know that not everyone has the time for it OR in some cases they simply do not feel approach doing, so we try to keep the costs very low on it.
5. Is there anything a professional can do in the credit repair field that you can't do yourself? Only thing I can think of is to have a letter signed by an Attorney, which I have to say DOES in fact carry some weight in a situation like this.

Now that part is out of the way let’s get to one of the most common questions we get

Fico Vs Vantage









I think it's safe to say most of you reading this are consumers so I think it’s also safe to say you must be much more familiar with Vantage scores, because let's be honest they were designed for consumers to check their own scores for free, of course every "Free" site will drown you credit card ads because thats how they get paid.... but I digress.  I will say my favorite of these Vantage sites is Credit Karma, while all Vantage sites give the same score I feel they give the most insight of HOW you arrived at that score.

Anything you can see for free is either a Vantage score or a "projected" Fico score, True Fico is never free.
So how do they Differ?

Well before get into that let me first say I do not know of ONE lender in all my years of doing this that will check for Vantage scores before giving a credit decision.....

1. Difference in Scoring Models

FICO and VantageScore aren’t the only scoring models on the market. Lenders use a multitude of scoring methods to determine your creditworthiness and make financial decisions. But despite the numerous options, FICO and VantageScore are likely the only scores you’ll ever personally see.

How do FICO and VantageScore rate you? Both use the same basic criteria:

Payment history
Length of credit
Types of credit
Credit usage
Recent inquiries

Although both FICO and VantageScore consider much of the same information, they gather their data in VERY different ways.

FICO bases its scoring model on credit reports from millions of consumers at once. They gather these reports from the three major credit bureaus and analyze the reports’ anonymous consumer data to generate an accurate scoring model.

Alternatively, VantageScore uses a combined set of consumer credit files, also obtained from those same three credit bureaus, to come up with a single formula.

Both FICO and VantageScore issue scores ranging from 300 to 850. In the past, VantageScore has used a range of 501 to 990, but the range was adjusted when VantageScore 3.0 was issued in 2013. VantageScore’s numerical rankings now match FICO’s, which makes it easier for consumers and lenders to implement the VantageScore model—plus, it’s less confusing for consumers who check both their FICO score and VantageScore.

2. Variance in Scoring Requirements.

If you don’t have a long history of credit, VantageScore is the score you want to monitor. Before it’s able to establish your credit score, FICO requires at least six months of credit history and at least one account reported to a CRA within the last six months. VantageScore only requires one month of history and one account reported within the past two years.

Because VantageScore allows a shorter credit history and a long period for reported accounts, it’s able to issue credit ratings to millions of consumers who wouldn’t qualify for FICO scores. Considering how everyone from employers to landlords want to see your credit score these days, if you’re new to credit or haven’t been using it recently, VantageScore might be able to prove your trustworthiness before FICO has enough data to issue a rating.

3. Significance of Late Payments.

A history of late payments will impact both your FICO score and your VantageScore. Both models consider these factors:

How recently the last late payment occurred.

How many of your accounts have had late payments.

How many payments you’ve missed on an account.

However, while FICO treats all late payments the same, VantageScore judges them differently—it penalizes late mortgage payments more harshly than other types of credit.

If you’ve had late payments on your credit cards, they will have about the same impact on both your FICO and your VantageScore. But if you’ve had late payments on your mortgage, you might find you have a higher FICO score than VantageScore.

4. Impact of Credit Inquiries.

You’ve probably heard you shouldn’t open too many credit cards in a short period of time. One reason for this is every time you apply for a credit card, the lender does a “hard inquiry” to check your creditworthiness.

VantageScore and FICO both penalize consumers who have multiple hard inquiries in a short period of time, and they both do “deduplication.” Deduplication is important for things like auto loans, where your application may be sent to multiple lenders, thereby resulting in multiple inquiries. Both FICO and VantageScore don’t count each of these inquiries separately—they deduplicate them, or consider them one inquiry.  However, the time span they use for deduplication differs.

FICO uses a 45-day span to deduplicate your credit inquiries. VantageScore limits its focus to only a 14-day range. VantageScore also looks at multiple hard inquiries for all types of credit, including credit cards. FICO considers only mortgages, auto loans, and student loans.

Inquiries aren’t your biggest concern when it comes to your credit score, but they do have an impact. If you want to buy a house or a car, restrict hard inquiries as much as possible to avoid lowering your credit score.

5. Influence of Low-Balance Collections.

VantageScore and FICO both have penalties for accounts sent to collection agencies. However, FICO might give you a bit more of a break when it comes to low-amount collection accounts.

FICO ignores all collections where the original balance was under $100. It also doesn’t count collection accounts you’ve paid off. VantageScore, on the other hand, ignores only paid collection accounts, regardless of the original balance amount.

First quarter of 2019 We are getting FicoUltra so we will see if that widens the gap between the two.


So what about "The Fourth Credit Bureau"

Besides the three national credit reporting agencies, Equifax, Experian and Trans Union, there is also another important credit agency in the US that maintains a significant database of consumer credit information called Innovis, which is a subsidiary of CBC Companies, aka CBCInnovis.

Founded in 1970 by the Associate Credit Bureaus (ACB), Innovis was originally called ACB Services.  Nineteen years later, Consumers Credit Associates (CCA) acquired ACB Services, and then in 1997, First Data Corporation purchased the company and gave it its current name.  Finally, in 1999, the Credit Bureau of Columbus (CBC) purchased Innovis, Inc.

Innovis offers both personal and business credit services.
Among the personal services, Innovis can provide consumers with copies of their Innovis Credit Report and assist consumers to dispute information in their Innovis report that is inaccurate or incomplete. Innovis will also place fraud and active duty alerts on their credit reports. You may also place a security freeze on your credit data at Innovis.

Innovis also provides businesses with credit related services such as authentication services, fraud solutions. and portfolio management.

Regarding authentication services, Innovis claims to have a greater number of identity variations for consumers for comparison in order to screen fraudulent requests. They also have expanded lists of verified phone numbers to better identify and authenticate consumers over the phone.

Under the fraud solutions, Innovis can use their database to assist businesses in spotting fraudulent applications.

The Innovis Portfolio Management Solutions services can assist businesses to identify up-sell and cross-sell transactions that may have the company’s bottom line.

More information about Innovis is available on their website at www.innovis.com.

Consumers can order your Innovis credit report here:


Innovis
Attention: Consumer Assistance
P.O. Box 1358
Columbus, Ohio 43216-1358

1-800-540-2505

Rumors that Innovis was created to give applicants with great credit history a "poor" report in order to lock them into higher interest rates have been running rampant since its inception (oops should we not have said that?)

What about LexusNexis?

Well they are the Devil.. oh you want a bit more details?

Ok LexusNexis is the company has the world's largest electronic database for legal and public-records related information, this in itself is not inherently bad, BUT The issue becomes when they are inaccurate, therefore everyone the furnish (The Credit Bureaus for example) are also incorrect HOWEVER when you try and correct inaccurate info they turn to the place they got the incorrect info in the first place (LexusNexis) to "Validate" it.

ohh and these scumbags also sued Toyota for the use of part of their name in Toyota's Luxury Vehicles....
Do yourself a favor and the moment you are done reading this use the link below to FREEZE LexusNexis

Let's take this a step further shall we? If you have bankruptcy on your report you MUST freeze / Suppress ALL of the following before you can work on getting that removed

Innovis Security Freeze
1-800-540-2505


Advance Resolution Services (A.R.S.)
1-800-392-8911


Sagestream (formely ID Analytics)
1-888-395-0277


 Corelogic/CREDO
1-877-532-8778


Factor Trust
1-844-773-3321


Clarity Services Inc.
1-866-390-3118


Microbilt
1-800-884-4747 option #5
1-888-222-7621

So now while we are on the subject of "other Credit Bureaus" How about Alternative credit?

Well PRBC is the most common company to offer alternative credit. Alternative credit is recognized in the eyes of the law. According to the Equal Credit Opportunity Act (ECOA), if you provide a lender with proof of nontraditional payment history, they need to take it into consideration. Legally, a business can't turn you away by saying they only accept traditional credit reports.
In addition, about 8,500 businesses currently use PRBC's alternative credit score, with more signing up for the service every year. Even if you approach a company that doesn't use PRBC, you can provide them with your alternative credit report.

Aside from the additional data PRBC includes in its credit scores, they have a few similarities with traditional credit reports. For example, instead of using a scale of 350 to 850, PRBC uses a scale of 100 to 850. Any score over 750 says that you're a responsible financial citizen. So, while there's a big difference between how we calculate alternative credit and how other consumer credit agencies analyze traditional credit, nontraditional credit scores aren't difficult for businesses to understand.

PRBC is for someone who either has little to no credit or has bad credit and wants to be judged off items that are not traditional to a credit report such as Rent, Utilities, insurance even how well they pay netflix....

This idea  must have been a good one in the eyes of Fico because the new Fico Ultra has some shades of PRBC in it by allowing the previously non credit worthy to have potential lenders factor in Bank accounts and other items not usually considered in a credit decision, of course since banking history is involved FicoUltra (in some circles it's called Ultra Fico) will be opt in only.

What we know about Fico Ultra so far:

The UltraFICO score is a new mechanism for determining your creditworthiness. While the exact details of it are still coming out, we do know a few things. First, it focuses on different factors than the traditional FICO score does.

Where the original FICO score will look at things like your debt levels, length of credit history, credit mix, and several other factors, it seems UltraFICO will focus primarily on your cash behaviors. Meaning, how much you keep in your checking, savings, and money market accounts, and how you use this money. It’s a way for those who don’t have credit or those who are rebuilding their credit, to prove their creditworthiness.

According to the FICO website, UltraFICO will look at things that the traditional score won’t pick up on, including:

Evidence of savings and keeping a healthy average balance.

Maintaining a bank account over time.

Avoiding having a negative balance, and.

Regularly paying bills and making other bank transactions.

Also unlike the traditional FICO score, you have to opt-in to UltraFICO. Fair Isaac Corp. says that “you are empowered to enhance your score by leveraging checking and savings account data in the score you build,” and that “if you have a low score or no score at all, you have a chance to increase your score based on data you share.” The process is done by simply using an app to connect your cash accounts.


Last but not least how about we talk about CPN's (Credit Profile Numbers AKA Credit Privacy Numbers AKA Credit Protection Numbers)

First question we always get is   "are they legal" The answer is YES but they are not for you to abuse and commit fraud because then THAT is illegal yes.

So what are they and how did they come about?
Well let's take someone like Tom Cruise (Love him or Hate him) walks into a car dealership, his SS# has to be put on the paperwork right? Well imagine what the car salesperson could do with the SS# of TOM CRUISE!!! So Tom likely uses a CPN, it’s a # in place of his SS# to protect his privacy.

Now the next question is, does a CPN tie directly to you? And the answer is.... It depends on how you set it up.
Way # 1 to setup a CPN, let’s call this the intended way to setup a CPN is as follows.
Your Name / Address / Phone number / DOB / Email address, this will link the CPN directly to you the first time you use it, so this method is for PRIVACY.

Way # 2 to setup a CPN, Let’s call this the way to get a brand spanking new credit profile (let's be honest this why all of you want to know)

Your Name / Different address you have never used before ANYWHERE ON ANY APPLICATION / different phone number you have never used before on anything / DOB and lastly a different email that you have never used on anything.
This will create a brand new credit profile not attached to your SS#
Fresh start Starting at 0.

I think if you are thinking about doing this (by this I mean way #2) keep a few things in mind

1. Do not give up on your credit, even if it is bad there is hope.
2. This is not a "solution" it is a band aid to get credit while you repair your SS# profile.
3. You can NOT use this to commit fraud and rack up bills with no intention of paying.
4. Be careful where you get your CPN from, many are frauds.
5. Make sure it is Tri Merged.

6. You can not simply apply for credit with a fresh CPN because it has ZERO history so you need to start with very specific creditors (which we give a list when you buy a CPN from us) OR be added to CPN friendly tradelines.

I tried to cover as much as possible in this Credit info section if you have any further questions please feel free to shoot us a line, we are always here to help, lend a hand or give free advice..